One Year Later…

“It is not necessarily at home that we best encounter our true selves. The furniture insists that we cannot change because it does not; the domestic setting keeps us tethered to the person we are in ordinary life, who may not be who we essentially are.”  ― Alain de Botton, The Art of Travel

I recently saw this quote and I’ve been reflecting on it for the several days (weeks). Why do I keep returning to it? Short answer is the author eloquently explains what I’ve been trying to understand about myself this past year.

On March 13, 2021, it will be one year since Spain hit full-stop due to the global pandemic. During those initial weeks, the kids and I existed solely within the walls of the house and the confines of our yard’s barriers. It was an unusual feeling to be “stuck at home” with no end in sight.

My home which is usually a haven for family, relaxing, and preparing for our next adventure began to feel like a weight. The year forced me to get comfortable with the house, being home, and with having no plans on the horizon (cause plans inevitably meant canceling them at a later date so it was less disappointing to just not plan). But there was a nagging feeling – that I was unable to pinpoint – that just felt off. Did I need to get rid of extra clutter in the house? Did I need more plants? Did we just need to move to a new house?

The thing with my home is it is full of travel memorabilia. Things such as a tea pot from my years in Japan, our framed Compostela certificates from the Camino de Santiago, a painting purchased in the medina of Fes, and more. Each item invokes a memory, a friendship, an experience. This was the reason I love my home – you walk into any room and you get a visual of my family’s combined life experience.

I miss traveling. I miss seeing my children exploring the world around them. I miss finding an adorable coffee shop or sampling a delicious treat that I didn’t know existed until a few moments prior. I miss conversations with my husband on a park bench after we hunted down the coolest playgrounds we could find for the kids. In essence, I miss the general growth we experienced as a family during our travels.

There was a level of stagnation and inertness within myself by being home; the items around me only seem to promote that. These trinkets from my travels and life experiences contain great memories, but also seem to be a version of myself suspended in time. They remained at that exact moment in time while I continued to grow. The feeling I was missing was that of forward movement and growth – the feeling I felt when out in the world. 

So maybe this author understood me – and others like me – before I understood myself. Traveling takes me a deeper part of myself where I get to shed the traditional roles of my life as a wife, mother, daughter, sister, friend, and coworker. It allows me and my family to just be explorers looking to learn from the world and gain a greater understanding of ourselves and each other. 

While there is no firm end in sight to when we can move about freely again, I can now look at my home through the lens that they are a beautiful timeline of memories; one where I can appreciate looking back as I also look forward to the future of being able to again experience the world and its many cultures around me. 

xoxo

Courtney

Simple Pleasures

Mandarin oranges drying on a gorgeous plate I bought in Japan. Truly the simple pleasures!

This past year hasn’t been easy. That said, it has also been a year of slowing down, life becoming a bit simpler, and finding beauty in the small things.

In recent weeks, one of those simple pleasures has been peeling my mandarin oranges and letting them dry slightly. Yep, you read that right. I peel a mandarin orange, leave it for (several) hours to dry, and then come back later to enjoy. The slightly dried outside explodes into the juicy inside making it a delightful little treat.

It all started with a viral Instagram post by Jeni Britton Bauer, the owner and creative genius behind Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream. She posted about her love of these slightly dried oranges and I thought “why not?!” I mean I’m at home all day and eating more fruit is a good thing, right?

What I didn’t expect was how this simple task would be so satisfying. Maybe I have too much time in my head since we’re now stuck between the four walls of our home/yard most days, but I began pondering the life lessons these oranges are teaching me. Finding simple pleasures in the every day? Learning to appreciate delayed gratification? Or maybe it’s as simple as having something to look forward to later in the day?

Regardless of the reason why, I will continue to enjoy these mandarin oranges and appreciating the simple, juicy goodness they have to offer. I will also continue to appreciate my past self who realized that “future Courtney” could use a simple pleasure to enjoy!

Navigating Your ‘Camino’ During this Time of Coronavirus

Laying in my bunk, I feel far from rested. The night before was a chorus of snoring, the coming and going of footsteps, and the tossing and turning of my 50+ roommates. It crescendos with a few early risers packing their bags at first light and yet still I lie here in my bunk trying to mentally prepare myself for the day ahead. My muscles ache, the soles of my feet are tender from the constant pounding on pavement, and my bummed knee is painful and swollen. Worst of all, my mind is racing and I wonder if I’ve gotten myself in too deep. 

Today would be another long day on the trail, over 20 kilometers in mountainous terrain, and I am already only dreaming of being there. “There” being that night’s albergue, or pilgrim hostel, where I will be able to take a quick lukewarm shower, prop up my knee, repair the blisters on my feet, and try to coax myself to sleep amid the noise again. But I know that this isn’t how it’s done; you have put in the work and effort. 

The Camino de Santiago is a religious pilgrimage with routes all over Europe leading to St. James’ tomb in northwestern Spain. There are numerous routes but the primary one is Camino Francés which starts in the French border town of St. Jean Pied de Port in the Pyrenees and makes its way 796 kilometers (495 miles) to Santiago de Compostela. In 2013, my husband and I flew to Spain to hike approximately two weeks on the Camino Francés. It has now been seven years since I was on the Camino, but I often find my mind drifting to those memories, experiences, and lessons. 

Throughout Spain’s State of Alarm, I experienced several mornings similar to the one along the Camino de Santiago. Lying in bed, wondering how I was going to get up and face the day – a day full of unknowns – and I often found myself pulling on the lessons learned over those several weeks on the trail. 

Now I realize that finding parallels in two vastly different experiences sounds slightly absurd. One kept me moving, changing beds every night, and meeting countless people from around the world; the other left me at home alone with only my family members, unable to go on long walks or hikes during the lockdown, and connected to the outside world primarily via screens.  However many of the lessons are still relevant, just with a different context.

One Step Forward. The first lesson is possibly the most important. Taking that first step forward, no matter how little or small. Get out of bed. Pack your bag. Hit the trail. Once up and moving (hobbling?) down the trail, the stiffness in my muscles would begin to fade as did the soreness in my feet. I became more focused, settled into my pace for the day, and reached that day’s destination before nightfall. 

The phrase “one step forward” was heard more times than I can count along the Camino. It was used as a motivator by albergues’ proprietors, nuns and priests, bar owners where you stopped for a café con leche, and fellow pilgrims. Initially it felt clichéd but I began to look forward to it because the general sentiment behind it was of encouragement or motivation. They believed in me, some times more than I believed in myself, that I would make it to Santiago de Compostela by only taking that first step forward. One step, one hundred meters, one kilometer felt so much more manageable than the end goal. 

Many times, throughout the State of Alarm, I’ve had to just remind myself – whether with big or small steps – to just push forward. Find the one task that I could manage that morning and hope that this first task, or step, would keep me moving forward. 

It’s hard – physically and emotionally. On the Camino, my sole task was to get up each morning, pack up and start walking. I only had to worry about my basic necessities of eating, sleeping, and caring for my body, but that didn’t make it easy. There was anger when I slipped on mud during a steep descent and twisted my knee, tears when I realized the Camino I envisioned wasn’t going to happen as I had hoped, excitement as I entered Santiago de Compostela with my fellow pilgrims and sat in front of the huge cathedral realizing this journey was over, reflection during the pilgrims’ mass that culminated my experience, and mourning as I realized that the Camino experience was ending and I now had to return to the real world again. 

There’s no doubt that this pandemic, Spain’s State of Alarm and the following months have been and are hard. We are inherently social and lean on each other for support. We are used to traveling and exploring, especially while being stationed in Southern Spain.  We are used to being selfish in our wants and needs. The State of Alarm has forced us to remove all the outside chatter and focus on two simple tasks – stay home and stay healthy.

Working toward a common goal. Throughout the Camino, everyone was working toward that common goal of reaching St. James’ tomb in Santiago de Compostela’s cathedral. It’s hard to put into words the feeling of all that energy flowing toward one central point. How at each marker, nightly stop, and kilometer, everyone was closer to that goal and excitement was building.

This pandemic has yielded similar feelings of togetherness. Things such as my children’s joy when they produced their “Todo Irá Bien” (everything will be ok) rainbow poster to hang in the window, being able to connect with my family more often since everyone was home at the same time despite a time difference, and the fact that as humanity, we are all working toward that common goal of flattening the curve, protecting those around us, and keeping our community healthy. 

Finding a community. Which brings me to my next lesson, finding community. Community is probably the most contradictory phase given the isolative state of this pandemic. However, a community’s bond is formed through a shared experience, and it would be hard to argue that this pandemic has not been a worldwide experience. On the Camino, the community was formed from fellow pilgrims, albergue owners, restaurants and cafes along the way, and the people who entered and exited the Camino along my path. 

The Coronavirus Camino has been finding my community online through social media, Zoom, texting and calls. It’s been a chance to reignite friendships that have taken the back burner due to the busyness of life, being able to connect with family more frequently, or meeting new friends virtually. During this time, I realized the value of my community and will take these lessons and connections with me and incorporate them into my everyday life from here forward.

It’s lonely. While there were hundreds of other pilgrims on the Camino, I had plenty of moments of quiet time to reflect. I had to turn inward. I had to deal with some unwanted thoughts, feelings and beliefs that I would usually push aside but because no one else was there to deal with those thoughts, it fell to me. 

Throughout the past several months, it’s been weird to only interact with friends via computers and phones, to only interact with my family members on a daily basis, and to know that we really won’t return to the fully social life we had before anytime soon. It has required me to turn inward, find the strength within, look for ways to balance myself, take the time for self-care, and ultimately, reach out for help if needed. 

The power of a “rest day.” After several days on the trail, we usually planned a “rest day.” Typically they coincided with a larger city so the day was filled with sleeping in (in a big comfy hotel bed!), a little sightseeing, taking that midday nap, and probably catching up on laundry or cleaning our gear. That said, I was usually restless by the end of the day, ready to begin moving forward again and catching up with our Camino friends on the trail. 

There were many days throughout the lockdown where I struggled, or felt guilty, for a rest day. In this time where there was no line between work and home life, or personal and family time, a day of rest was what I needed for my body and mind to process everything. Taking a day “off” to linger in bed a bit longer, go on a Netflix binge or finish that book, taking a long walk on the beach; basically anything to recharge my mind, body and soul. Just don’t stay in the rest mode too long! 

It’s ok to be sad. As I approached Santiago de Compostela, I was surprised to feel a sense of sadness come over me, and I was not alone with many of my fellow pilgrims expressing the same sadness. While we were elated to finally reach our destination, we were already beginning to grieve no longer being on the trail and the experiences that come with it. 

Like many, I’ve been saddened by missed vacations or social activities that we’ve had to give up since the pandemic began. Or as we begin to move about more, I find myself missing some of the simplicity of life at home during the lockdown. During these challenging times, it’s ok to be sad. There is a lot of truth in the saying “life’s a journey, not a destination.” This time will be full of emotions as you look back but hopefully you will see the good as much as the bad.  

The Second Camino. The general sentiment along the trail is that upon arriving in Santiago de Compostela, a pilgrim would begin their next Camino. It was rarely more defined, and was simply left for the pilgrim to figure out. For some, it may be a spiritual one, or one spent applying Camino lessons to their everyday life, or for others still, another physical pilgrimage somewhere in the world. That was left up to the individual to figure out. 

While we don’t know what the rest of 2020 will hold for us. I hope that you view this next stage as the next Camino. To remember the knowledge and lessons learned over the past several months, apply them to your current life, and most importantly, take that first step forward. Buen Camino!

Note: This commentary first appeared in Naval Station Rota newspaper, Coastline, on September 24, 2020.

Reverse, reverse

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I feel like I am again apologizing for my absence posting to this blog. I had all intentions to get it up and running again but then we found out we were moving back to Japan. Hence the title “Reverse, reverse.” 🙂

I am a child of the 90s and therefore, Cha Cha Slide was all the rage. I just had that one line on repeat in my head as I went through the motions of cleaning up and passing off job duties, prepping the house for moving, pack out, temporary lodging, flight, getting settled in temp lodging, finding a new house, getting settled, etc. Didn’t I just do this a YEAR ago?!

The upside is we are now back in Japan and here for at least three years! It means I can pick up where I left off with exploring Japanese food and culture, traveling Asia (several countries that I didn’t get to visit on our last stay here), and experiencing Japan through the eyes of my daughter.

xxCourtney

It’s been awhile…

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Exploring central coast California

It’s been awhile, my friends. Too long in fact! Life and daily obligations have a way of sucking you in and next thing you know….weeks have passed, months have passed, and then years. Don’t think that this blog hasn’t crossed my mind or that I didn’t want to write. Life was just crazy, crazy busy.

Since my last post (November 2013? Really??), I found out I was pregnant, started a new job, vacationed stateside, had the baby, made an international move to the United States, started another new job and got settled in our new home/city/life. I like to think I’m flexible and easy-going but there were moments I wondered if we bit off more than I could handle.

Life has begun to settled down…well as much as life does with an 8-month old who crawls and gets into everything! But I hope to get back into the groove of posting, cooking up some of our favorite foods, recreating food memories from abroad and traveling this beautiful country that is my home!

xxCourtney

Food Festa: Nihonbashi Food Tour

On November 1st, I was lucky enough to participate in a Nihonbashi tour focusing on “Umami,” or the fifth taste, that is very common in Japanese. The 90-minute tour included discussion about nori, katsuobushi and dashi, and general panel discussion. It was coordinated by Japan Food Festa as part of a month-long celebration of Japanese food and culture.

I participated in the first tour of the day. We met at Mitsukoshi Department Store, one of the oldest in Japan, in downtown Tokyo. To start the tour, they described the importance of the Nihonbashi bridge (which has a huge highway running above it now so a bit of an eyesore). The bridge dates back to Edo period and this was one of the main merchant areas. Therefore, many of the oldest shops in Tokyo can be found here.

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Freshly grilled nori was served

Our first stop was Yamamoto Noriten shop specializing in nori (seaweed) that was founded in 1849 during the Edo Era. The manager gave a brief presentation about the store and its history. We given samples of nori prior to grilling to get the taste of it. Then the nori was freshly grilled in front of us and we were given another sample. I enjoyed both samples. The first tasted light and “of the sea” while after grilling it, the flavors intensified. The store offers various types of nori for purchase as well as nori crackers and snacks. We sampled a few and I can’t wait to go back and purchase some!

Our second stop was Ninben which specializes in katsuobushi and was founded in 1699. Katsuobushi is the dried tuna that is thinly shaved to put on many Japanese dishes, found in furikake (condiment sprinkled on rice), or a key ingredient in dashi.  The manager gave a presentation on the company and how katsuobushi is made. It’s a detailed process that results in a product that is only 14% water, one of the driest foods in the world. To be honest, it sounded like wood when you tapped it. The manager also demonstrated how they freshly shave the katsuobushi and had other tour participants give it a try. You definitely had to put some muscle in it! Luckily for us, they now have machines that will shave the katsuobushi so all you need to do is open a packet.

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Dashi bar in Ninben store

Attached to the store was a dashi bar. Yes, you heard right. A dashi bar. I made a joke beforehand that we were going to go to a dashi bar to sample and imagine my glee when I got to do just that! We were given the basic katsuobushi dashi to sample. Then we were instructed to add some soy sauce and taste again. Then salt and taste again. With each addition, I felt that the depth of flavors increase.

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Time for some dashi tasting

Once we completed the store visits, we headed back to Mitsukoshi Department store where we were able to view their tea ceremony room. Even with all my tea lessons, this was the first I had seen and/or used a traditional square entrance. The door was so samurais would have to remove their swords prior to entering the tea room and thus everyone became equals. Once in the room, we participated in a panel presentation and a Q&A regarding the products and the flavors of umami.

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To enter the room, you must slide through this tiny door

To conclude, Yukari of Food Sake Tokyo (amazing blog and travel book that is a necessity for any foodie traveling to Tokyo) summed up the tour and experience. She explained that Japan’s traditional washoku cuisine is up for UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list and should be decided upon in December. If it receives the designation, it will help to preserve this traditional cuisine as well as provide greater options for foreign chefs to come, learn, and work in restaurants specializing in washoku.  Once the presentation was complete, we were given a quick tour of the depachika (basement food floor of most major department stores). It truly is a foodie’s paradise with gorgeous bento boxes, pickles, wagashi, and more.

I want to thank Food Festa for putting on a great tour to delve a deeper into Japanese food and umami. I learned so much during this tour and it has made me more confident in understanding the process behind some of Japan’s most common  ingredients.

Sukiyaki Cooking Class

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Sukiyaki – Japanese one pot meal that are common in the winter

I think fall has skipped Japan all together and we’re heading full-steam into winter. Sad, but true. However, there is some silver lining to winter approaching…sukiyaki!

On Saturday, I headed to Tokyo for a sukiyaki cooking class with my foodie friend. Sukiyaki is hands-down my favorite Japanese winter dish. I’ve tried a few different nabe (hot pot cooked at table) but always finish a meal wishing I had gotten sukiyaki instead. I was sure it was easy to make but sometimes it’s easier to have someone show you the first time.

Buddha Bellies Cooking School has long been one of my favorite Tokyo stops. I routinely check out their website to see what’s happening and what classes I can join. It all started over a year ago when I took the first udon-making class for my birthday. It was a wonderful night spent with our gracious host Ayuko, new friends, and my husband. Those living abroad know how lonely birthdays (or holidays) can be so feeling like you’re with “family” makes it easier.

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My friend prepping the warishita sauce for sukiyaki

But I digress; this post is about sukiyaki and its deliciousness. Ayuko started the class by explaining the basic history behind the dish.  There are different stories on how sukiyaki came about. But the one consistency is that prior to outside influence, the Japanese did not eat much meat. When westerners started coming to Japan in the late 1800s, they wanted beef and the Japanese being unaccustomed to preparing beef would boil it in pots with soy sauce.

The other cultural tidbit that we learned was that there are two types of sukiyaki, Kanto- and Kansai-style. The first major difference is the sauce. The Kanto-version requires warishita sauce to be prepared ahead of time.  For the Kansai-version, it is added after the beef has begun cooking. There is also a variance in sauce flavor. People in the Kanto prefer a saltier version while the Kansai area prefers a sweeter version.

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Beautiful vegetables chopped and ready for sukiyaki

Since we were in Tokyo, we were learning the Kanto-version so first up was making the warishita sauce. The sauce was ridiculously easy to make. We mixed together soy sauce, mirin, sugar, salt, and sake. Brought it all to a boil and allowed it to cook off the alcohol before letting it cool. The sauce actually improves after a few days so make it ahead of time and you minimize prep on the day.

After we had the sauce was complete and cooling, we moved onto the vegetables. We cut and prepped onions, cabbage, carrots, tofu, and mushrooms. We added a hashed “X” on each mushroom which I thought was done for presentation alone but discovered it actually allows more sauce to seep into the mushroom. Yummy!

We also cut the grilled tofu in the traditional way Japanese do which means on your hand. Yes, you heard right! We were both a bit freaked out about cutting our fingers off but in the end, it all worked out well and we had nicely cut tofu.

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Learning to make Japanese omelet

With the sukiyaki platter ready to go, we moved onto our appetizer platter. We made a dish called namasu which is pickled cucumber and wakame seaweed, Japanese egg omelet, and a decorative sushi roll.

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Our teacher Ayuku demonstrating how to make decorative sushi

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Our finished appetizer plate

Then it was time to begin our feast! There is a process to how items are added to the sukiyaki dish. First, we placed a beef fat cube in the pot instead of oil to grease it. Most grocery stores and butcher shops offer beef fat in the meat section. I had always wondered what those white cubes were in the basket and now I know! Then the first round of beef is added with some of the warishita sauce. Only beef is added for the first round is to allow it to further flavor the sauce with its juices.  After we gobbled up the delicious marbled beef, we added more beef, mushrooms, onions, cabbage, grilled tofu, shirataki noodles, and shungiku (garland Chrysanthemum). Let it all cook and then time to eat.

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First into the sukiyaki dish is marbled beef

The traditional way to eat sukiyaki is by dipping it in a raw egg. You break the egg in the bowl provided, whip it, and then dip the beef into it prior to eating. It helps to cool the beef and the egg cooks slightly on the surface. There’s an added richness this way but don’t feel you have to do it. The meat and vegetables were equally delicious without.

I’m so excited to add sukiyaki to my cooking binder as its quick, communal, and the perfect dish for these cold days. What’s your favorite winter dish?

xxCourtney

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Enjoying a crisp sake from Niigata prefecture with our sukiyaki

Happy Japan-niversary!

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Cherry Blossoms in Kyoto

We’ve lived in Japan now for three years. Three years? Really?

Time truly does fly! Three years of exploring this beautiful country which has become our home. Here’s a few things we’ve learned during our time here.

1. Customer service is AMAZING! You are cheerfully greeted as you enter any store. Workers are quick to help you find what you want. And they bow after every purchase. But the best customer service innovation is a buzzer found on the tables of many restaurants Perfect solution for having a waiter there when you need them and no mindless chitchat about how your food tastes when you don’t.

2. I will never learn to read this language. Yes, it’s sad but I’ve just resigned myself to that fact. The challenge is it isn’t one written language but four! You have hiragana, katakana, kanji, and romanji (Japanese words written in Roman alphabet). To be honest, the hiragana, katakana, and romanji would be do-able but kanji is straight memorization…and my brain just shuts down!

3. Homes are fragile. This is possibly one of the few dislikes I have about living in Japan. The homes are cold, cold, cold in the winter because they are built to “breath” during those hot and humid summers. The floors are impossible to keep clean and glossy because even though it’s wood, there is not durable wax to protect it. The redeeming factor is most homes have heated toilet seats. Best invention ever! I want one in my American home.

4. Food is diverse. Most Americans seem to think only of sushi and teppanyaki when it comes to Japanese cuisine. And now, ramen is starting to make a splash! But this is barely scratching the surface of Japanese cuisine. It’s varied and diverse from curry and yakitori to nabe and kaiseki. And once you’re finished sampling Japanese food, you can move onto basically any cuisine in the world. French, Italian, Moroccan, Chinese, American BBQ, or whatever your stomach desires!

This list could go on and on because we are always learning and growing. Living in a foreign culture is not only challenging, but forces you to growing as a person on a daily basis. You have to step outside your comfort zones, embrace the adventure, and make the most of the time you have here. We’ve enjoyed our three years of experiences, the friends we’ve made, and personal growth. Here’s to another two years in the “Land of the Rising Sun”!

Enjoy some photos of our first three years!
xxCourtney

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Day 2 in Japan: Iwakuni’s Kintai-kyo Bridge

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Miyajima Island and its famous floating torii

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Making momiji-manju on Miyajima island with my work group

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Hiking Mt. Fuji with my sister and brother-in-law

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Birthday weekend to the art island of Naoshima

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Festa de Rama with friends

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Cooking class in Kyoto with visiting family

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Backpacking Shikoku with Zion

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Hasu-chan, Iwakuni’s mascot, at a Lotus Root cooking class

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Learning to make a character bento

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Trying cross-country skiing on Nagano’s Olympic course

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Meeting up with old friends from my BGSU years

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Performing tea ceremony

My Birthday Celebration: Eating my way across Tokyo!

Not a traditional post but I know several were following my photos yesterday as I literally ate my way across Tokyo! So here was the rundown of where we ate and my thoughts on each. The pictures are all from my iPhone as I wanted to stay “in the moment” as much as possible (which can sometimes be hard with a dSLR attached to your face).

On our Tokyo Birthday Celebration, the first stop was lunch reservation at Kimono Wine Bar & Grill. I have been dying to check this place out. Not only does the menu look great but they are always hosting themed nights like wine pairings, creatives, movie viewings, and more. I love any place that combines programming with good food! After finally making my way here, I have a feeling this will be a routine stop on our Tokyo trips. They describe it as an “oasis” and I think this is a perfect description. We were in the heart of Tokyo yet the street and neighborhood was laid-back and removed from the daily bustle of one of the world’s largest cities!

I made reservations because I have heard it fills up quickly on the weekends but when we showed up for a late lunch, we were the only ones (a few trickled in afterwards). Not sure if it’s because we visited on one of the few non-holiday weekends in September/October but it gave us the option of eating inside, or on the patio. Since the air has finally begun to cool off, we sat outside and enjoyed the gorgeous weather!

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Spanish cidre for an afternoon lunch on the patio

Now to the food. The food is described as Euro-fusion. We only had the brunch menu, which has been extended to include Saturdays and Sundays till 4PM. The menu offered a diverse blend of American and European style dishes. There was chorizo, eggs benedict, bagels, and burgers to fill your stomach along with special brunch cocktails and an extensive wine and beer list.  I opted for their swordfish “burger” which I have heard great things about. The swordfish was grilled and then topped with a tomato/onion salsa, avocado, and a special Thai-inspired sauce. My husband selected the pulled pork burger with cole slaw. We thoroughly enjoyed both dishes but the dessert was what took the prize for me! When it came to the final decision of making a choice on where to eat, I opted for Kimono Wine Bar & Grill because they mentioned their famous almond cake with brown butter sauce was back on the menu. Hmm…I love almond cakes so I had to try it. Wowser, even my husband was wanting “just one more bite”….

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My swordfish “burger” which I highly recommend

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My husband opted for the pulled pork sandwich which he quickly devoured!

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Almond cake with brown butter sauce. I MUST go back soon for this!

After lunch, we meandered the half kilometer to the National Art Center Tokyo where there’s a special exhibit (through October 2013) on American Pop Art. The admission price was 1500 yen but worth every penny in my eyes. This private collection of John and Kimiko Powers included artwork from all the Pop Art Masters including Andy Warhol and Roy Lichenstein.  No pictures were allowed inside so all you get is this picture of a 3D replica of the 200 Campbell Soup Cans. On a random note, I found it hilarious that the museum’s gift shop was selling actual Campbells’ soup cans for a pretty high price!

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A little slice of Americana

Then it was off to find Sadaharu Aoki patisserie. I discovered him while I was researching for our Paris trip in May. I was intrigued because he was a Japanese man who was told he would never open a French pastry shop. As a dramatic show of defiance, he went to Paris where he opened several shops that were well-received. In recent years, he’s returned to his homeland and opened several shops in Tokyo. We went to the Midtown location since it was the closest. We got the 6-pack macaroon box at a whopping 1840 yen! (As my husband says, I have expensive taste!) We selected the Japanese-inspired macaroons that you typically don’t find elsewhere. Flavors such as matcha (green tea), yuzu (Asian citrus), hoija, black sesame, and wasabi.

We then headed outside to the lawn of Midtown where we enjoyed our macaroons with Spanish cava. Yes, a sparkling wine bar has been set up on the lawn. Do they do this all year round?! I don’t know, but I think it’s a brilliant idea. And for the macaroons, I loved the Asian-flavored combinations but was slightly disappointed with the filling. It was incredibly dense and seemed almost gelatinous to me. My preference is flavored fresh cream fillings. That being said, I will return for the black sesame and yuzu macaroon!

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Birthday girl with macaroons (aka my birthday cake) and cava

After the sugar rush, we were in need of some substantial food so we hopped the train to DevilCraft. It’s a craft beer bar that serves up pizza including Chicago Deep Dish pizza. They recently opened a new location but we went to the original restaurant near Kanda station. The first floor bar has seating for approximately 12 persons in a trendy, albeit tight, space. The restaurant does have two additional floors but all were reserved for Saturday night. We ordered a small Chicago deep dish pizza to share. What came out would be classified as a personal pan pizza by American standards! However, it is deep dish and we had plenty to eat beforehand so we were fine with the smaller portions. Can’t wait to head back here soon with an empty stomach!

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Chicago deep dish pizza in Tokyo

So with that, we decided it was time to leave Tokyo and head back home for the day. It was an absolutely wonderful birthday!  I was so happy to finally get to try these restaurants and stores, however, I may need to be head that way more often because my stomach is growling again…

Courtney

Kabocha Vanilla Chai Ice Cream

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Kabocha Vanilla Chai Ice Cream (and yes, I need to update photos!)

This was a recipe I created a year ago for a Food52 ice cream contest. I surprisingly made it to the semifinals (call it beginner’s luck) but lost out in the final week of voting. That being said, this recipe is killer for fall time. It’s the perfect blend of fall ingredients mixed with those warm flavors of chai tea and vanilla. Enjoy!

Kabocha Vanilla Chai Ice Cream
Adapted from Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream

Roasted Kabocha Squash
2-3 lb Kabocha squash

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Cut the squash in half; remove seeds and membranes. Place cut side down on a baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes until soft when pierce with fork. Let cool slightly. Scoop the flesh into a food processor and puree until completely smooth. Measure out 1 cup of the kabocha puree for the ice cream; reserve the rest of the puree for another use.

Chai Milk Base
1-inch piece fresh ginger, cut into thin rounds
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp black peppercorns
5 whole cloves
3 cardamom pods
1 vanilla bean, scraped
3 cups whole milk
3 Darjeeling tea bags

Combine first 5 ingredients in medium saucepan. Mash slightly with a wooden spoon. Add in whole milk and place over low heat. Simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and place tea bags in milk mixture. Let steep for 10 minutes. Remove tea bags and strain mixture. Measure 2 cups of the chai milk mixture for recipe; discard remaining milk.

Ice Cream
2 cups chai milk base
1 TBSP plus 1 tsp cornstarch
1 ½ ounces (3 TBSP) cream cheese, softened
1/8 tsp fine sea salt
1 ¼ cups heavy cream
2/3 cups sugar
2 TBSP light corn syrup
1 cup kabocha puree
¼ cup maple syrup

Mix 2 TBSP of chai milk base with cornstarch in a small bowl to make a smooth slurry.

Whisk the cream cheese and salt in a medium bowl until smooth. Add kabocha puree and maple syrup and combine until smooth.

Combine the remaining milk, cream, sugar and corn syrup in a 4-quart saucepan, bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat and boil for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Return the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring until the mixture is slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat.

Gradually whisk the hot milk mixture into the cream cheese mixture until smooth. Pour the mixture into a 1-gallon Ziploc freezer bag and submerge the sealed bag in the ice bath. Place ice bath in the refrigerator and leave for at least an hour, or preferably overnight.

Pour the ice cream base into the frozen canister and spin until thick and creamy. Pack the ice cream into a storage container, press the sheet of parchment directly against the surfact, and seal with an airtight lid. Freeze until firm, at least 4 hours.