Reverse, reverse

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I feel like I am again apologizing for my absence posting to this blog. I had all intentions to get it up and running again but then we found out we were moving back to Japan. Hence the title “Reverse, reverse.” 🙂

I am a child of the 90s and therefore, Cha Cha Slide was all the rage. I just had that one line on repeat in my head as I went through the motions of cleaning up and passing off job duties, prepping the house for moving, pack out, temporary lodging, flight, getting settled in temp lodging, finding a new house, getting settled, etc. Didn’t I just do this a YEAR ago?!

The upside is we are now back in Japan and here for at least three years! It means I can pick up where I left off with exploring Japanese food and culture, traveling Asia (several countries that I didn’t get to visit on our last stay here), and experiencing Japan through the eyes of my daughter.

xxCourtney

Food Festa: Nihonbashi Food Tour

On November 1st, I was lucky enough to participate in a Nihonbashi tour focusing on “Umami,” or the fifth taste, that is very common in Japanese. The 90-minute tour included discussion about nori, katsuobushi and dashi, and general panel discussion. It was coordinated by Japan Food Festa as part of a month-long celebration of Japanese food and culture.

I participated in the first tour of the day. We met at Mitsukoshi Department Store, one of the oldest in Japan, in downtown Tokyo. To start the tour, they described the importance of the Nihonbashi bridge (which has a huge highway running above it now so a bit of an eyesore). The bridge dates back to Edo period and this was one of the main merchant areas. Therefore, many of the oldest shops in Tokyo can be found here.

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Freshly grilled nori was served

Our first stop was Yamamoto Noriten shop specializing in nori (seaweed) that was founded in 1849 during the Edo Era. The manager gave a brief presentation about the store and its history. We given samples of nori prior to grilling to get the taste of it. Then the nori was freshly grilled in front of us and we were given another sample. I enjoyed both samples. The first tasted light and “of the sea” while after grilling it, the flavors intensified. The store offers various types of nori for purchase as well as nori crackers and snacks. We sampled a few and I can’t wait to go back and purchase some!

Our second stop was Ninben which specializes in katsuobushi and was founded in 1699. Katsuobushi is the dried tuna that is thinly shaved to put on many Japanese dishes, found in furikake (condiment sprinkled on rice), or a key ingredient in dashi.  The manager gave a presentation on the company and how katsuobushi is made. It’s a detailed process that results in a product that is only 14% water, one of the driest foods in the world. To be honest, it sounded like wood when you tapped it. The manager also demonstrated how they freshly shave the katsuobushi and had other tour participants give it a try. You definitely had to put some muscle in it! Luckily for us, they now have machines that will shave the katsuobushi so all you need to do is open a packet.

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Dashi bar in Ninben store

Attached to the store was a dashi bar. Yes, you heard right. A dashi bar. I made a joke beforehand that we were going to go to a dashi bar to sample and imagine my glee when I got to do just that! We were given the basic katsuobushi dashi to sample. Then we were instructed to add some soy sauce and taste again. Then salt and taste again. With each addition, I felt that the depth of flavors increase.

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Time for some dashi tasting

Once we completed the store visits, we headed back to Mitsukoshi Department store where we were able to view their tea ceremony room. Even with all my tea lessons, this was the first I had seen and/or used a traditional square entrance. The door was so samurais would have to remove their swords prior to entering the tea room and thus everyone became equals. Once in the room, we participated in a panel presentation and a Q&A regarding the products and the flavors of umami.

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To enter the room, you must slide through this tiny door

To conclude, Yukari of Food Sake Tokyo (amazing blog and travel book that is a necessity for any foodie traveling to Tokyo) summed up the tour and experience. She explained that Japan’s traditional washoku cuisine is up for UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list and should be decided upon in December. If it receives the designation, it will help to preserve this traditional cuisine as well as provide greater options for foreign chefs to come, learn, and work in restaurants specializing in washoku.  Once the presentation was complete, we were given a quick tour of the depachika (basement food floor of most major department stores). It truly is a foodie’s paradise with gorgeous bento boxes, pickles, wagashi, and more.

I want to thank Food Festa for putting on a great tour to delve a deeper into Japanese food and umami. I learned so much during this tour and it has made me more confident in understanding the process behind some of Japan’s most common  ingredients.

Sukiyaki Cooking Class

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Sukiyaki – Japanese one pot meal that are common in the winter

I think fall has skipped Japan all together and we’re heading full-steam into winter. Sad, but true. However, there is some silver lining to winter approaching…sukiyaki!

On Saturday, I headed to Tokyo for a sukiyaki cooking class with my foodie friend. Sukiyaki is hands-down my favorite Japanese winter dish. I’ve tried a few different nabe (hot pot cooked at table) but always finish a meal wishing I had gotten sukiyaki instead. I was sure it was easy to make but sometimes it’s easier to have someone show you the first time.

Buddha Bellies Cooking School has long been one of my favorite Tokyo stops. I routinely check out their website to see what’s happening and what classes I can join. It all started over a year ago when I took the first udon-making class for my birthday. It was a wonderful night spent with our gracious host Ayuko, new friends, and my husband. Those living abroad know how lonely birthdays (or holidays) can be so feeling like you’re with “family” makes it easier.

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My friend prepping the warishita sauce for sukiyaki

But I digress; this post is about sukiyaki and its deliciousness. Ayuko started the class by explaining the basic history behind the dish.  There are different stories on how sukiyaki came about. But the one consistency is that prior to outside influence, the Japanese did not eat much meat. When westerners started coming to Japan in the late 1800s, they wanted beef and the Japanese being unaccustomed to preparing beef would boil it in pots with soy sauce.

The other cultural tidbit that we learned was that there are two types of sukiyaki, Kanto- and Kansai-style. The first major difference is the sauce. The Kanto-version requires warishita sauce to be prepared ahead of time.  For the Kansai-version, it is added after the beef has begun cooking. There is also a variance in sauce flavor. People in the Kanto prefer a saltier version while the Kansai area prefers a sweeter version.

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Beautiful vegetables chopped and ready for sukiyaki

Since we were in Tokyo, we were learning the Kanto-version so first up was making the warishita sauce. The sauce was ridiculously easy to make. We mixed together soy sauce, mirin, sugar, salt, and sake. Brought it all to a boil and allowed it to cook off the alcohol before letting it cool. The sauce actually improves after a few days so make it ahead of time and you minimize prep on the day.

After we had the sauce was complete and cooling, we moved onto the vegetables. We cut and prepped onions, cabbage, carrots, tofu, and mushrooms. We added a hashed “X” on each mushroom which I thought was done for presentation alone but discovered it actually allows more sauce to seep into the mushroom. Yummy!

We also cut the grilled tofu in the traditional way Japanese do which means on your hand. Yes, you heard right! We were both a bit freaked out about cutting our fingers off but in the end, it all worked out well and we had nicely cut tofu.

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Learning to make Japanese omelet

With the sukiyaki platter ready to go, we moved onto our appetizer platter. We made a dish called namasu which is pickled cucumber and wakame seaweed, Japanese egg omelet, and a decorative sushi roll.

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Our teacher Ayuku demonstrating how to make decorative sushi

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Our finished appetizer plate

Then it was time to begin our feast! There is a process to how items are added to the sukiyaki dish. First, we placed a beef fat cube in the pot instead of oil to grease it. Most grocery stores and butcher shops offer beef fat in the meat section. I had always wondered what those white cubes were in the basket and now I know! Then the first round of beef is added with some of the warishita sauce. Only beef is added for the first round is to allow it to further flavor the sauce with its juices.  After we gobbled up the delicious marbled beef, we added more beef, mushrooms, onions, cabbage, grilled tofu, shirataki noodles, and shungiku (garland Chrysanthemum). Let it all cook and then time to eat.

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First into the sukiyaki dish is marbled beef

The traditional way to eat sukiyaki is by dipping it in a raw egg. You break the egg in the bowl provided, whip it, and then dip the beef into it prior to eating. It helps to cool the beef and the egg cooks slightly on the surface. There’s an added richness this way but don’t feel you have to do it. The meat and vegetables were equally delicious without.

I’m so excited to add sukiyaki to my cooking binder as its quick, communal, and the perfect dish for these cold days. What’s your favorite winter dish?

xxCourtney

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Enjoying a crisp sake from Niigata prefecture with our sukiyaki

Happy Japan-niversary!

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Cherry Blossoms in Kyoto

We’ve lived in Japan now for three years. Three years? Really?

Time truly does fly! Three years of exploring this beautiful country which has become our home. Here’s a few things we’ve learned during our time here.

1. Customer service is AMAZING! You are cheerfully greeted as you enter any store. Workers are quick to help you find what you want. And they bow after every purchase. But the best customer service innovation is a buzzer found on the tables of many restaurants Perfect solution for having a waiter there when you need them and no mindless chitchat about how your food tastes when you don’t.

2. I will never learn to read this language. Yes, it’s sad but I’ve just resigned myself to that fact. The challenge is it isn’t one written language but four! You have hiragana, katakana, kanji, and romanji (Japanese words written in Roman alphabet). To be honest, the hiragana, katakana, and romanji would be do-able but kanji is straight memorization…and my brain just shuts down!

3. Homes are fragile. This is possibly one of the few dislikes I have about living in Japan. The homes are cold, cold, cold in the winter because they are built to “breath” during those hot and humid summers. The floors are impossible to keep clean and glossy because even though it’s wood, there is not durable wax to protect it. The redeeming factor is most homes have heated toilet seats. Best invention ever! I want one in my American home.

4. Food is diverse. Most Americans seem to think only of sushi and teppanyaki when it comes to Japanese cuisine. And now, ramen is starting to make a splash! But this is barely scratching the surface of Japanese cuisine. It’s varied and diverse from curry and yakitori to nabe and kaiseki. And once you’re finished sampling Japanese food, you can move onto basically any cuisine in the world. French, Italian, Moroccan, Chinese, American BBQ, or whatever your stomach desires!

This list could go on and on because we are always learning and growing. Living in a foreign culture is not only challenging, but forces you to growing as a person on a daily basis. You have to step outside your comfort zones, embrace the adventure, and make the most of the time you have here. We’ve enjoyed our three years of experiences, the friends we’ve made, and personal growth. Here’s to another two years in the “Land of the Rising Sun”!

Enjoy some photos of our first three years!
xxCourtney

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Day 2 in Japan: Iwakuni’s Kintai-kyo Bridge

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Miyajima Island and its famous floating torii

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Making momiji-manju on Miyajima island with my work group

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Hiking Mt. Fuji with my sister and brother-in-law

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Birthday weekend to the art island of Naoshima

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Festa de Rama with friends

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Cooking class in Kyoto with visiting family

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Backpacking Shikoku with Zion

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Hasu-chan, Iwakuni’s mascot, at a Lotus Root cooking class

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Learning to make a character bento

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Trying cross-country skiing on Nagano’s Olympic course

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Meeting up with old friends from my BGSU years

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Performing tea ceremony

Wednesday Morning Tea Bliss

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Delicious wagashi and matcha tea

It’s been awhile since I posted about my chado, or tea, lessons so here it is…

I’m still trudging along and learning new procedures. A fellow student and I applied for the basic certificate of chado through our school. Our sensei (teacher) helped us prepare the application form which she submitted this past weekend. Woohoo! We’re on our way to becoming official tea students!

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Fellow tea student practicing tea ceremony

In the meantime, we are practicing several new procedures. Over the past few weeks, I have learned a soothing summer tea ceremony, how to properly serve tea to Japanese royalty, using a leaf to cover my mizusashi, how to serve tea to royalty and their assistants, and how to perform tea ceremony with a shelf. Yes, there are literally numerous variations to each procedure I learn. It’s been fun and challenging but I love every minute of it.  We have 16 procedures to learn for this basic certificate and I’ve only covered about half. I definitely have my work cut out for me by this November!

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Fellow tea student enjoying tea during our weekly lesson

I won’t only be preparing for the tea certificate but several performances in late October and early November. I am excited to get out and try my skills again in front of guests. But until then, I will thoroughly enjoy what I refer to as my Wednesday Morning Tea Bliss. It’s my mid-week recharge where I get to enjoy delicious wagashi (Japanese sweets), matcha tea, and girl time.

xxCourtney

10 Years Later

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Standing by my college’s sign at BGSU after graduating.

Last night, I was feeling reflective. Probably because I realized that ten years ago, I was in this same spot. Not life point, but location. Currently, I live in the Kanto Plains of Japan and in 2003, I also spent a summer here. During that summer, I was completing my final internship with MWR. It was my last adventure before entering the “real world” to find a job, home, and possibly a husband. That summer, however, was all about being young and having fun!

10 years ago…I was at the start of my career. The world was full of possibilities. I was single. I had spent the majority of my life in America. I wanted to live overseas and travel. I didn’t have a full-time job. I worked insane hours but loved every minute of it.

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Summer 2002 internship in Souda Bay, Greece

Japan 2003 - Mt Fuji

Summer 2003 internship in Atsugi, Japan. Hiking Mt. Fuji

Now 10 years later… I am married. I have a dog. I have lived overseas for the past 8+ years (At this point, Ohio is more of a travel destination to me than “home.”) I have worked a variety of jobs. I have lived in Europe and Asia. I have climbed peaks in several countries. I am always trying new recipes. I speak in a jumbled mix of English, Spanish, Japanese, and other languages. I’ve tried backpacking and loved it. I have experiences the good and bad of living in other cultures; I have experienced the good and bad of America when I return. I walked the Camino with pilgrims from around the world. I spend plenty of time in my kitchen, writing my blog, or researching upcoming travels. I’ve made friends with several like-minded people around the globe. I became a foodie.

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Kyoto, Japan

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Backpacking Grand Canyon in 2004 with friends.

Spain - Carriage ride in Sevilla

My husband and I on a carriage ride around Sevilla only a few short days after getting engaged!

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Enjoying Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima, Japan

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Our little “Spanish” dog who loves hiking as much as we do!

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Cooking class in Seoul, Korea

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Learning the chado, Japanese way of tea, and performing for others

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Cooking with Annie B in Andalucia, Spain

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My husband and I along the Camino de Santiago, Spain

And I have made my way back to Japan. I realize I’m pretty lucky to be able to come back to a place that had such an impact on me years ago. This time however, I feel that I appreciate it more as a world citizen than just an American living in Japan.

xxCourtney

A Day of Firsts

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Performing tea ceremony
Photo credit: NAF ATSUGI MWR

It was a day of firsts….

My first time performing tea ceremony.

My first time wearing a kimono.

My first time being asked for an autograph.

My first time having insanely large camera lenses in my face!

The morning of the performance I was a nervous wreck. Would I mess up? Would I be able to walk in zori shoes? Would I remember the Japanese phrases, or mash them all together like I’d been doing throughout the week? Deep breath in, exhale…

An experienced fellow tea student told us that many Japanese don’t fully know the intricacies of tea ceremony.  So while we aim for perfection, slight mess-ups probably would go unnoticed. Whew!

Throw in the wind that kept toppling our chasaku (tea scoop), the addition of a stand to hold up the chasen (tea whisk) and all those other “X” factors, we learned to just give into the moment and enjoy the experience.

In the end, we were thanked by many for serving them tea, learning an ancient Japanese art, explaining tea ceremony procedure to them, and allowing them to photograph us.

It was a beautiful day and I can’t wait for my next performance.

xxCourtney

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Pouring in the hot water.
Photo credit: NAF ATSUGI MWR

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Cleaning the chasen, or tea whisk
Photo was given to me by Japanese participant

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Caught enjoying the performance!
Photo was given to me by Japanese participant